NYFW: on the runway: Lela Rose: FW09


from on In the midst of a bustling, frenetic city, plunging capital markets, and overall feelings of malaise and anxiety, Lela Rose sought refuge in the vivid, verdant calm of the forest and all its magical creatures. Her vision for ready-to-wear was influenced by a “kaleidoscope of colors that includes bold magenta and chartreuse - recalling the brilliant hues of a butterfly or the petals of a wildflower. Lela’s signature use of layering and mixing various textures was deployed as a play on the idea of an insect’s exoskeleton.” The result? Dragonfly silk and wool skirts, beetle wing skirts, viridian green double color silk faille dresses (which reminded me of Thakoon’s previous collections), a spun gold one-shoulder dress - vivid, sensual clothes in luscious fabrics with tailoring that evokes the look and feel of her inspiration. Silk tulle, taffeta, paper-thin cashmere were some of the delicious fabrics draped on the models reinforcing the concept that although we are in living in bleak times, our clothes can certainly reflect jubilance and prosperity. Akin to the looks at Thuy, Rose’s wonderfully conceived collection was filled with wearable pieces that one could easily weave into their wardrobe.

And to compliment the draped, luxe looks coming down the runway? Kicks from Lela Rose’s new line for Payless, of course (available September 2009). Nine styles were unveiled on the runway in fabric uppers of multi-colored tweed and “knot-less” bow accents inspired by insect wings, a nod to the FW09 collection. We also saw intricate cut-outs and straps, rendering a “cage” effect, as well as the “Diana” shoe - a classic, t-strap pump. By integrating affordable shoes with ready-to-wear, Rose is part of a host of designers emphasizing that designers are cognizant of a consumer’s reality, which is shifting from runway to “realway.” Mixing high and low pieces in a woman’s wardrobe continues to be the trend.


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