Sometimes the route to finding the best skin products is about tuning out the noise and listening to yourself. Smug brands, dime-store estheticians, clever packaging (of course we want that crystal jar and the bejeweled case! It’s healing properties are on the verge of mythic!), are not only confusing, but can lead to us spending an extraordinary amount of money on products that don’t work, or don’t need. I’m a casualty of this bullying, and have the barely used products to prove it. Did I really need that night cream? No, I did not. Should I be using that creme cleanser on combination skin? Only a lunatic would. And more importantly - should I have drop-kicked that Equinox facialist who told me I had dry, “terrible” skin when four estheticians and a dermatologist politely inquired if that woman was smoking something (not their words, my retelling)?
Although I consider myself pretty tough, laying supine while someone dissects all of your flaws has the ability to reduce me to a whimpering, credit-card-relinquishing, mess. Chalk it up to my type-A personality, but my knee-jerk response to a problem is: How do I fix it? And it’s only after my visit to the Dermalogica concept store in Soho did I realize that I’ve never really been educated about my skin; I’ve only been sold products that promised to fix nebulous conditions. When I visited the spacious, sleek, and modern Soho space, I checked out the Skin Bar, where a skin therapist cleaned my skin and delivered a very detailed analysis of my 13 facial zones.
And this concept of pushing knowledge rather than product, impacted me as a consumer and a potential brand evangelist. And since the tide has turned from crass consumerism to that which is necessary and effective, Dermalogica, as a skincare brand, couldn’t be more relevant.
Recently, I had the opportunity to speak with Dermalogica’s CEO, Jane Wurwand, and she spoke about the brand, conservative global expansion, and the importance of listening to the consumer.
Although we’re in the midst of a precarious economy, many are finding, ironically enough, that now is the best time to start a business. As someone who is a successful entrepreneur, can you speak to the process of how you launched your company?
JW: My process was to ignore all of the advice that well-meaning people insisted on giving me. They all told me that it would never work. As I grew more determined and more successful, I realized that people telling me that was crazy was usually a good sign that I was doing something right. Simply because most people are not risk takers and are in fact, risk aversive. Natural entrepreneurs are, by nature, risk takers and see the up side of the situation. We focus on the opportunity and not the challenge.
To get started, my husband Raymond and I [then boyfriend] were able to borrow a little money–very little - about $14,000. Then we simply began being and living in the reality which we had envisioned. We took a five-year lease on 1,000 sq.ft. space and set up our school for skin therapists near our apartment, because I had to be able to walk there–I didn’t have a car at the time. We began with the education, because this was where I saw the greatest need. My credo is that if you can identify the greatest ‘pain’ in an industry, then you have identified the greatest opportunity.
Two years into offering classes, I realized that there were no products, which were really suitable for the curriculum we had created. So, I set about to create products which I wanted to use in my classes. Again, chemists told me what I wanted was impossible. This was because I wanted to formulate without mineral oil, S D alcohol, artificial color, artificial fragrance, lanolin–all things that were present in every other skin care product at the time, and are still present in many of them today.
They all said it couldn’t be done. Apparently, they were all mistaken. My process always consists of listening to my own intuition. It’s not that I think everyone else is wrong. If they, too, are speaking from a place of intuition, I’m very interested in what they have to say. If they’re just nervous because I’m suggesting something outside their comfort-zone, well - this is why I don’t work for anyone else.
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